Osaka

The neon canal district is the greatest outdoor food court in Japan — takoyaki (octopus balls, ¥500–700 for 6), okonomiyaki (savoury pancake), kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers), and crab legs at the shop under the giant mechanical crab. Do this at night when the neon reflects in the canal.

Osaka's 200-year-old covered market — 170 vendors selling premium Japanese seafood, A5 wagyu skewers, sea urchin on rice, and tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) eaten standing. Morning is best (8–11am) for the freshest selection.

The great castle of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, completed in 1583 and rebuilt in 1931 with a modern interior museum — the 8th floor observation deck overlooks cherry blossom or autumn foliage depending on season. The castle park is one of Japan's finest urban parks.

A 45-minute train from Osaka — over 1,000 free-roaming sika deer in the park before Todai-ji Temple (housing Japan's largest bronze Buddha). Buy shika-senbei rice crackers to feed the deer. One of Japan's most charming day trips.

The 1920s retro Shinsekai district with Tsutenkaku Tower is the home of kushikatsu — deep-fried meat, vegetable, and seafood skewers dipped in a communal sauce (double-dipping is a cardinal sin). Order 15–20 skewers for ¥1,500–2,000.

Two towers connected by a floating garden observatory 173m above the city — a retro-futurist 1993 masterpiece with glass escalators rising through open air. The Showa-era underground market (Takimi-koji) below recreates a 1920s Osaka alley.